Sunday, February 27, 2011

Photography Tips and Tricks


Edinburgh Photography City Bypass Speedway Race Track by John Gilchrist


Photo Credit: celtics baby clothes



Photography isn't just about making memories, it's about art. Be artistic. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you make those photos, picture perfect.

To make those dull photos turn into works of art, consider these questions:
Decide if you want the full subject, half, or even a close up. How much background do you want, or even foreground? Exactly how close do you want that close up? What details do you want to focus on? Do you want a vertical, horizontal, or tilted photograph? What angle do you want? What's the best lighting? What background do you want to use?

1. Placing the subject of interest. Choose how much of the subject you want photographed. (Example: you want full body, half body, or face shot.) If your subject fills the frame then it's okay to center it. If you are trying to get more of the background, try placing your subject to the right or left in the viewfinder. With a horizontal (laying down), try to place them at the top for more foreground, or at the bottom for more background. And you could even tilt the camera for a more funky picture. It all depends on what part of the scenery you want visible in the picture. Maybe you want that tree to your left and your subject to the right. Or the patch of flowers in front and the mountains in back. (I find it best to take my time and take shots of each possible way and several different poses. This way I know I'll find the best photograph with the most potential.)

2. Don't center. The circle, plus sign, or brackets in the middle of your viewfinder is for focusing and isn't necessarily for centering the subject. Placing your subject in t he circle could leave you with a lot of empty and useless space on your photograph. Too much background and not enough subject. If your subject fills the frame then it is okay to center them. (Sometimes you just have to ignore the focus points and concentrate on your subjects placement in the frame instead.)

3. Camera angles. Walk around the subject, shoot from all angles and sides. This will help you to get the best lighting, background, and different aspects of the subject. You will want to find the best angle for all three. Pick a background that will not distract your viewers from the subject of interest. (I choose my backgrounds to where there's not much clutter. Sometimes I will use a plain sheet or blanket and place it behind the subject, but making sure it does not clash or blend.)

4. Reflectors. In some situations you just can't get enough light or you perhaps you just want more. To use a light reflector, place it in a position where it reflects light onto the subject without it getting in the frame. Use this if your shot is coming out too dark or there are too many shadows. On night shots that you need more than your flash can put out, place a lamp (or several) near your subject, but out of sight, and use the light reflectors to bounce from the lamps to where needed. (Some homemade light reflectors can be real cheap to make. You could use white cardboard, or if you can't find this, then simply take any piece and paint it white. For more light, place tin foil over your piece of cardboard, smooth it out, and reflect where needed.)

5. Shading. Using the same piece of cardboard as mentioned above, you can use this to block the light as well. You could make this easier by painting one side white and the other black. Or just place the piece in front of the lamp or sun to dismiss light from your subject. On most cameras you can use a sunshade for the lens, some cameras come with this, some you buy separate. This won't keep light from your subject, but it will block the light from causing a flare effect on the outcome of your photograph. The sunshade just clicks into place around your lens, and keeps the lens safe from any glaring.

6. Outside daylight. Direct sunlight is when you place the sun behind the camera, but in front of the subject. Using direct sunlight can cause shadows on the subjects face and possibly their eyes squinting. Back light is when the sun is behind the subject and in front of the camera. This will lighten the photo and cause much softer features on the subject.

7. Preventing red eye. Red eye is caused when the flash is too close to the lens. Ways to prevent this are: Attach a larger flash to your camera, t his way the flash is further from the lens. Or if buying a camera, look for one with the flash located far from the lens. Try getting closer to your subject when needing the flash. (Before I bought my camera with built in red eye correction, I had to use a photo editing program to correct these problems. I was even scanning my pictures and still having to edit when I was using my film camera that was hopeless against red eye.)

Stephanie Harrison Photography - Where You'll Find the Best Photographer in Town


Cuba Gallery: New Zealand / landscape / mountains / lake / nature / water / photography by ►CubaGallery


photo source



Whether you're looking for that perfect photographer for senior pictures, wedding photos, new baby celebration or special family moments, Stephanie Harrison Photography is the place to go! You'll not only find a professional studio that is conveniently located in the heart of the Historic Depot District in Richmond, Indiana, but you'll meet one of the friendliest, easy going photographers around; not to mention at a great value!

The photographer at Stephanie Harrison Photographer, none other than Stephanie Harrison herself, offers an artistic style that can't be found elsewhere. The results of her work give an eclectic, non-staged, and real feeling. She captures expressions and movements perfectly in her photographs. She's got the perfect personality for children and adults alike. She can accommodate any situation from serious, quiet moments to doing whatever is needed to get an unsure baby to smile, make nervous folks feel comfortable or even catch that wondering gaze of a beloved pet.

Photos aren't always taken inside the studio at Stephanie Harrison Photography. The opportunity is also there to go outdoors and use the resources of the Historic Depot for a more urban look, combining the exposed brick of old buildings with the sweet, fresh face of a new baby, for example. Stephanie is also often available for on-site shoots for weddings, special celebrations and other purposes!

Stephanie Harrison has the experience to make your photo shoot the best it can be! She's been featured in a number of magazines across the world and has won various photography awards. With such skill and recognition one might think her prices would reflect it, but at Stephanie Harrison Photography, the value is unreal!

The session fee is a very reasonable $40.00 for up to four people. Prices for prints obviously vary by size but range anywhere from $8.00 for eight wallets up to $90.00 for a huge 20x30 print! She offers packages for senior pictures starting at a low $99.00 and Wedding Packages that can be had from $550.00. Also available are Gallery Canvas Wraps in various sizes which are, simply put, awesome!

Stephanie Harrison Photography can be found at 195 Fort Wayne Avenue in Richmond, Indiana and reached at (765)962-3133. The website, www.stephanieharrisonphotography.com offers numerous examples of Stephanie's work, a price sheet, bio, and contact information for setting up your first session.

Stephanie Harrison Photography; you simply won't find a better photographer around!


Saturday, February 26, 2011

Starting Your Own Professional Photography Business


Cuba Gallery: Melbourne / Graffiti / Color / Portrait / Grungy / Urban / Street photography by ►CubaGallery


source,photo source



So now you have the desire and determination to make it work, but what will you do? Photography is your passion, or is it? There are hundreds of photographers out there no matter where you live; what makes you so different from all the other photographers?

* Do you have the unique style necessary to attract the crowds to your camera?


* Can you survive in the cut-throat business of shooting day in and day out whoeversteps in front of your camera?


* Are you original and creative enough to think of different poses, create various styles of portraits of babies, families, couples and single people and still think sanely?

If you answered these questions positively, you may be on your way but that’s not all it requires. Though photography seems a fairly easy business where in movies and television you see a young man photographing beautiful women in studios or on exotic locations, selling all the images to magazines or having huge billboards displaying his pictures, that’s just a dream. Reality can be quite different from what many think of this profession.

It takes more than a fancy camera in this day and age to make a person buy your pictures, let alone to make a business out of it, surviving on income made with your photography. If you live in Spain or anywhere else, if there’s other photo studios then you’re competing against those already established with a good clientele. How can you compete against them?

Here are some recommendations to help you build your dream of working as a photographer:

a.       Create an unique style that stands out from the other photographers


b.      Be professional at all times


c.       Display only your best images to possible clients and change these often


d.      Offer specials to advertise yourself and your photography


e.       Have exhibits of your photography to help spread word of your new business


f.        Be patient and be sure to have a good supply of backup funds in the case they don’t come

Let’s discuss the above points….  This will help you to understand how to succeed.

Look at those you will be competing against; what do they offer in their photographic services? Can you offer the same or more? Most importantly, how does your style of capturing a scene or a face stand up against theirs? You will need to establish that style before you can start with a business. Be sure in what you do and do only that.

When you work with a client, you must maintain a professional environment at all times. In my many years behind a camera, I have seen amateurs make many mistakes during events, weddings and other assignments. In some cases, it wasn’t a mechnical or technical error but a public relations mistake – some people just don’t know how to work with the public. If you do the same, you will not last for very long. While people talk a lot of good images, they talk even more about how terrible a session was. You don’t want that type of advertisement. Research your assignments, know the light. If you have new equipment, then be sure you know what they can do and how you can use it. There’s nothing worst than finding out the hard way a flash or a new lens isn’t completely “right” in your hands.

Advertising yourself is the most important thing you can possibly do; no matter how good (or bad) you think you are, if nobody knows of your services or product, then you wont sell many if at all. When you display a poor image, then others will see the faults also – never display an image that is in bad taste. Show only your best work and watch people contact you. If they see bad results, they will stay away. Your best form of advertisement is word-of-mouth from a satisfied client!

While you may be one who doesn’t believe in the “store specials”, this method of advertising does work, and you can make it work to your benefit. A special attracts people who normally wouldn’t buy a product but does due to the price offer, or does buy and sees a special pricing as a reward for their loyalty. Act on that thought and you will see more customers contacting you!

Many people go to art exhibitions to see art – when this exhibit involves portraits of people for example, it can draw in customers from a different area you never thought possible. While many go for two main reasons – to see art and enjoy it, or to buy art for themselves – having an exhibit consisting of portraits for example, encourages possible interest in becoming a subject for your camera. It also works in a different direction, establishing your track record and building on your resume to show people interested in your experiences and awards, etc. in photography.


Lastly, starting a business is not easy or as “easy” as you may think photography may be. This profession is no exception to the rule. These days everyone having a digital camera makes them a “photographer”. Who will pay you to create their memories to last a lifetime? Before you actually start your new life in photography, be sure to have a good sum of reserve cash banked away to maintain your living expenses through the lean months – if that is the case. In most new businesses, the first two years can be the hardest and patience can save your sanity! The biggest mistake here is that after two or so years of little or no business, new businesses will close, but that is wrong! That’s the worst time to close as now you already have yourself in people’s minds: seeing the storefront, knowing you’re a photographer, etc. stick it out just a bit longer!

Photography Tips and Tricks


Cuba Gallery: New Zealand / green landscape / mountains / lake / portrait / beautiful / nature / rural / sky background / water / trees / hills / photography by ►CubaGallery


credit



Photography isn't just about making memories, it's about art. Be artistic. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you make those photos, picture perfect.

To make those dull photos turn into works of art, consider these questions:
Decide if you want the full subject, half, or even a close up. How much background do you want, or even foreground? Exactly how close do you want that close up? What details do you want to focus on? Do you want a vertical, horizontal, or tilted photograph? What angle do you want? What's the best lighting? What background do you want to use?

1. Placing the subject of interest. Choose how much of the subject you want photographed. (Example: you want full body, half body, or face shot.) If your subject fills the frame then it's okay to center it. If you are trying to get more of the background, try placing your subject to the right or left in the viewfinder. With a horizontal (laying down), try to place them at the top for more foreground, or at the bottom for more background. And you could even tilt the camera for a more funky picture. It all depends on what part of the scenery you want visible in the picture. Maybe you want that tree to your left and your subject to the right. Or the patch of flowers in front and the mountains in back. (I find it best to take my time and take shots of each possible way and several different poses. This way I know I'll find the best photograph with the most potential.)

2. Don't center. The circle, plus sign, or brackets in the middle of your viewfinder is for focusing and isn't necessarily for centering the subject. Placing your subject in t he circle could leave you with a lot of empty and useless space on your photograph. Too much background and not enough subject. If your subject fills the frame then it is okay to center them. (Sometimes you just have to ignore the focus points and concentrate on your subjects placement in the frame instead.)

3. Camera angles. Walk around the subject, shoot from all angles and sides. This will help you to get the best lighting, background, and different aspects of the subject. You will want to find the best angle for all three. Pick a background that will not distract your viewers from the subject of interest. (I choose my backgrounds to where there's not much clutter. Sometimes I will use a plain sheet or blanket and place it behind the subject, but making sure it does not clash or blend.)

4. Reflectors. In some situations you just can't get enough light or you perhaps you just want more. To use a light reflector, place it in a position where it reflects light onto the subject without it getting in the frame. Use this if your shot is coming out too dark or there are too many shadows. On night shots that you need more than your flash can put out, place a lamp (or several) near your subject, but out of sight, and use the light reflectors to bounce from the lamps to where needed. (Some homemade light reflectors can be real cheap to make. You could use white cardboard, or if you can't find this, then simply take any piece and paint it white. For more light, place tin foil over your piece of cardboard, smooth it out, and reflect where needed.)

5. Shading. Using the same piece of cardboard as mentioned above, you can use this to block the light as well. You could make this easier by painting one side white and the other black. Or just place the piece in front of the lamp or sun to dismiss light from your subject. On most cameras you can use a sunshade for the lens, some cameras come with this, some you buy separate. This won't keep light from your subject, but it will block the light from causing a flare effect on the outcome of your photograph. The sunshade just clicks into place around your lens, and keeps the lens safe from any glaring.

6. Outside daylight. Direct sunlight is when you place the sun behind the camera, but in front of the subject. Using direct sunlight can cause shadows on the subjects face and possibly their eyes squinting. Back light is when the sun is behind the subject and in front of the camera. This will lighten the photo and cause much softer features on the subject.

7. Preventing red eye. Red eye is caused when the flash is too close to the lens. Ways to prevent this are: Attach a larger flash to your camera, t his way the flash is further from the lens. Or if buying a camera, look for one with the flash located far from the lens. Try getting closer to your subject when needing the flash. (Before I bought my camera with built in red eye correction, I had to use a photo editing program to correct these problems. I was even scanning my pictures and still having to edit when I was using my film camera that was hopeless against red eye.)